Thursday, 23 March 2023 // Banana / Main Camp
10:08 AM
50.7 km
Banana
At 42 km a truck was coming at me. I was riding on the right side of the road, which was paved 70 years ago by the British. The left side of the road is dirt, and I had to cut onto that.
At 48 km the dirt lane ends, and the road becomes two lanes wide, paved. Paved is SLIGHTLY less rough, bumpy, full of potholes. The road gets worse, from Banana to London, due to use.
10:17 AM
55.5 km
Main Camp
At JMB Store, the only store on the island that gets goods from Honolulu, as compared to Fiji. I stop and chat with, John and Anna Bryden’s son, Bob. Bob runs the JMB store, which he runs with his mother, now that dad, John, is retired.
Bob is tall. One of the tallest I’ve seen here. Then again, his dad is tall. He looks like any other from the island, yet he’s got a Scottish accent as his father is Scottish, both he and his older brother Andrew studied in Scotland. Mom, Anna, was born here.
I just splurged and bought a Coca-Cola, and… 1 can of pineapple. Going to live large.
It is now 10:43 and heading to London.
11:12 AM
London
70.3 km
2.5 hours, including chat with Bob
← From Poland to London
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Broken Chain. Iou’s much rusted, never lubricated (except for water and salt water) chain breaks only minutes after I wonder if it will break. Takes 5+ hours to have him back on the road.
I took a drama class at MIT when I was fifteen. Later played softball for the MIT Film Department for 14 years, from age 23 — 37, till I moved to Texas. This kind gent offered us a much-needed lift from the bush in Paris, to the village of Poland, after the chain of Iou’s motorcycle broke.
Tabare Takeakea, councilman for Poland, and owner of the trading store, and copra operation opposite it. This is the only store on the island that IS a trading store. Yes, they accept cash, but will also accept payment in bags of copra. Much of the population is living via local subsistence — fish and whatever scant crops they an grow — and often on the government dole, due to lack of jobs. Which means the population — often regardless of having a full-time job — turns to copra as income, the products that has been the island’s economic foundation for generations.
Not Poland, but London “bells,” but the principle is the same: large propane tanks. They sound wonderful.
The JMB Store, in Main Camp. The Brits were the first to use Christmas Island for military testing — atomic bombs — back in the late 1950s. Then the Americans came in and did the same, through 1963. In all my years I never knew the US did that, and I’m fairly well-schooled in Christmas Island history. So if I am unaware, am certain most citizens of the United States have no idea. The British camp was between the ocean and the main road. The U.S. camp was on the other side of the road, and these buildings were once part of the U.S. occupation. The store was found by Scotsman John Bryden, and he’s since passed operation on to is wife, Anna, a native of Kiritimati and son, Bob. Bob, looking every inch a local, has a Scottish accent, having been schooled back in Scotland, along with his brother.
Where The Wild Things Are, by Maurice Sendak, was a favorite book as a kid. The ship, the palm trees, the adventure! Once back to the States, will send a small stack of these back to Kiritimati, for Tureta and other primary school teachers. Why has it taken me all these years to make the connection between this book, my affinity for palm trees, and this island? My mother reading me this book certainly predates my understanding of my grandfather living here.